The cottage cheese, or paneer as we know it, was the most delicious I had ever had; it had a unique melt in the mouth pungency – much smoother than the fancy fermented imported cheese. The host, with genuine pride, informed that he had procured this cheese specially for our dinner from the Bakarwals of Jammu and Kashmir. Since he belonged to the state, now a union territory, he would have got it for a song. But believe me, in Delhi’s upmarket stores, it costs a fortune. Perhaps the Bakarwals, happy tending the bakris (goats) from which they derive their identity, are blissfully unaware how precious their produce is.