It is late in the evening of March 24, 2011. The throng in the Durbar Hall of the Rashtrapati Bhavan puts hands together as the greatest living poet of the Malayalam-speaking world rises to receive the second-highest honour in the land. The applause is muted as Ottaplakkal Neelakantan Velu Kurup is handed his Padma Vibushan "for exceptional and distinguished service" in literature and education and over before he returns to his seat. Protocol is served.