Hou, the Nagas! Not the Kumbh variety, but the real McCoy from the simplified collective—for everyone’s convenience—called the Northeast. This is tricky territory; this Nagaland, this incontrovertible paradox for plain plains-folks. But for once, let’s peek beyond that panoptic view, that visceral, evocative portrait of a land filled with headhunters, dog-eaters, masked insurgents, and all that which fires popular imagination outside the rolling hills, valleys, streams, lush paddies and village morungs, those bachelor longhouses. And discover a Nagaland, more precisely Kohima, through the eyes of Khonuo and Kevinou—an Angami mother and daughter—growing up in two tumultuous times that define the place.