The vast network of dak bungalows (the name itself suggests their origin as staging posts) took shape from the 1840s onwards to host weary officials on imperial duty—mostly ics officers on an ‘upcountry’ tour, but also families on the seasonal migrations to the hills, and boxwallahs on the celebrated ‘dawk travel’. In fact, constant travel—notwithstanding the baking heat and torrential rains—so exemplified British life in India that Emma Roberts, an eighteenth century traveller, wrote: “A more unfixed, unsettled, floating community cannot be imagined”. As with most imperial institutions, dak bungalows soon acquired their own set of legends—quirky, enigmatic, atmospheric and wrapped in the landscape.