IN the tobacco business, the steak under the table is said to be juicier than whats usually on the top. Repeated excise evasion notices served on ITC only go to prove that. The latest claim involves Rs 799 crore of excise evasion and Rs 74 crore in penalties (including fines on its top bosses), and was unceremoniously slapped the day after Deveshwar took charge on Jan 1, 96.