Baramulla: A Tale Of Love And History  

The first time I set foot in Baramulla, it wasn’t history or politics that drew me in—it was love. It was 2019, and my journey there was not one of exploration or research. It was a simple trip to meet someone I had fallen for, a relationship that had grown across the distance of cities and mountains. Little did I know that this love would lead me down a path far deeper than I had imagined, into the intricate weave of Baramulla's past and the charged politics of the Kashmir region. As I waited in Baramulla’s quiet streets, looking out at the rolling landscape of the Pir Panjal range, I felt a deep connection—first to the person I had come to meet, and later, to the land itself. Each visit brought new stories, new layers of understanding, and soon I realised that my personal story had become intertwined with the broader narrative of Baramulla’s rich yet turbulent history. 

The Personal Meets the Political 

Love often has a way of opening our eyes to things we may have otherwise overlooked. My trips to Baramulla began with the simplicity of stolen moments, shared conversations, and walks along the Jhelum River, but as I spent more time there, I found myself growing curious about the town’s past. How had Baramulla come to be the way it was? What was its place in the larger, complicated history of Kashmir? 

Driven by a desire to uncover the true history of Baramulla, I encountered Khaliq Parvez, a historian whose life mirrors the turbulent legacy of the region he chronicles. Exiled for seven years to Pakistan, Parvez poured his personal and political journey into "Jalaye Watan," a memoir that reflects the pain of displacement. His historical account, "Aur Jhelum Behta Raha," is a masterful exploration of Baramulla's resilience—depicting its invasions, devastation, and eventual rebirth, much like the timeless flow of the Jhelum river. Baramulla, once called Varahamulla, is a name steeped in myth and geography. In ancient Hindu mythology, it was believed that Lord Vishnu, in his boar avatar, struck the lake at Varahamulla to vanquish the demon Jalodbhava, freeing the valley from tyranny. This etymology connects two Sanskrit words, Varaha (boar) and Mula (root or depth), symbolising divine intervention. However, another interpretation—rooted in the landscape—offers a more grounded explanation. Baramulla sits where the Jhelum River curves dramatically, bending its way towards Pakistan. The moulding of the river’s path mirrors the literal meaning of the name, emphasising the natural flow over mythic origins. Here, history bends with water, shaping both land and legend.  

Baramulla, founded by Raja Bhimsin in 2306 BC, has long stood as a gateway to Kashmir. Through its doors passed travellers, traders, and emperors—from the Chinese monk Heiun T’Sang to the British explorer Moorcroft, and from Mughal rulers like Akbar and Jehangir. In the 14th century, Persian Islamic preachers brought Islam to Kashmir, and their journey took them through Baramulla. This city, steeped in history, is a symbol of coexistence where different faiths have lived side by side for centuries, creating a unique blend of cultures that endures to this day. Baramulla, much like Constantinople, stood as a vibrant confluence of cultures where the East and West met. Decades before Srinagar rose to prominence, Baramulla thrived as a bustling trade centre, with the Jhelum Valley Cart Road acting as its artery. This ancient route, akin to the Silk Road, brought Central Asian and West Asian commerce and craftsmanship into Kashmir. Like Constantinople, where European and Arabian cultures coexisted, Baramulla became a melting pot of influences, blending art, trade, and ideas, making it Kashmir's own crossroads of civilisation. Baramulla, known locally as the "town of mountains," is home to some of the most stunning tourist spots, including the world-renowned Gulmarg and the serene Shranz Falls. Adding to its natural beauty is the Kazinag National Park, established in 1992, which lies in the heart of this picturesque district. This park is also part of a larger vision for a trans-Karakoram peace park, symbolising hope for cooperation and peace with neighbouring Pakistan amidst breathtaking landscapes.  

Tragedy and Hope  

Baramulla’s political relevance goes beyond its picturesque landscape. The town has been a strategic point in the long-standing conflict over Kashmir, a conflict that has defined the region’s identity for decades. From the wars that followed India’s partition to the ongoing territorial disputes, Baramulla has seen it all. It has been both a symbol of resistance and a victim of the political games that have played out in the region. But despite all this, Baramulla remains a place of hope. The people who live there, like the person I came to meet, are not defined solely by the conflict around them. They have lives, dreams, and aspirations that stretch beyond the boundaries of politics. They are, in many ways, the living embodiment of Kashmir’s resilience. As I spent more time in Baramulla, I came to see how deeply connected love and history are in this place. My personal journey, which began as one of romance, evolved into a broader exploration of identity, heritage, and belonging. The story of Baramulla, like the story of Kashmir itself, is one of enduring love—love for the land, for its people, and for the idea of peace in the face of conflict. 

Today, Baramulla stands as a symbol of the possibilities that lie ahead. It is a town that has survived invasions, political upheavals, and violent insurgencies, but it is also a place that holds the promise of peace. The future of Baramulla, like the future of Kashmir, is still uncertain, but if the love and resilience of its people are any indication, it is a future that will be built on hope. For me, Baramulla will always be more than a place I visited for love. It is a place that taught me about the enduring power of history, and the way our personal lives are shaped by the forces around us. It is a reminder that love, even in the most challenging of circumstances, can be a powerful force for understanding and change. 

The author is a freelance writer and political researcher.