Nargis (my wife) has her own observation about Istanbul residential streets. She feels there is an uneasy, mysterious calmness among the residents of Istanbul as if they are waiting for some big tragedy to fall upon them. Do they harbour some kind of collective guilt, she asked. I replied that I too felt something, but it was vague for me. Now that she had asked me, I felt like she had clarified that vagueness, has perhaps unraveled that mystery.
I could recall a passage of Orhan Pamuk’s book Istanbul (p. 103): “Caught as the city is between traditional culture and Western culture, inhabited as it is by an ultra-rich minority and an impoverished majority, overrun as it is by wave after wave of immigrants, divided as it has always been along the lines of its many ethnic groups, Istanbul is a place where, for the past hundred and fifty years, no one has been able to feel completely at home.”
For a tourist, fun-visitor like us, figuring it out is difficult. But, given the troubled history of forced deportations, population transfers, demographic and ‘toponymical’ engineering, state sponsored massacres, ethno-nationalism even in the Republican era, etc., the mystery of uneasy calmness, or of collective guilt or fear or both, seems to unraveling, perhaps.