Miles and miles of unspoiled beaches, long stretches of thousand-acre paddy fields and a sprawling lagoon surrounding the city make Batticaloa an ideal holiday destination. But today life in the eastern Sri Lanka town is anything but a picnic. As dawn breaks over the picturesque Batticaloa lagoon, a long queue of school-children, office workers and traders line up along the bridge which divides the town to face a laborious check by the army. By dusk, the town shuts down and no one ventures outside till morning, when major roads are carefully searched for landmines and rebel ambushes before civilians can move.