I have a knack for missing the bus, in this case a friend's car which didn't have an extra seat, and started biting my nails in frustration as my sister and friends set off in high spirits one afternoon with a long list of presents to bring back for my friends in Delhi. Shantiniketan's gawa (cow's milk) ghee is, of course, the best in the world. I can personally vouch for that. You can still get genuine Bengali folk art, and even their leather jholas with fussy patterns—which once used to be the rage of Janpath—have been updated to sleek modish ones with just a dash of colour here and there. "Good enough even for evenings," promised my sister. "Bring half-a-dozen for my women friends," I shouted, as the car drove off.