What I love about Mussoorie is the cheerfulness of local mechanics. I put Mary Poppins, my old motorbike, in mothballs for several months at a time and, when I return, need to have the tank air-blown. Luckily I live on a hill and can freewheel down to Hasan's workshop where one of his four sons does the job in minutes. Hasan is originally a Balti from Kargil and I am like his fifth son as I bought the bike from him. For some reason, Bal-tis make good mechanics (though they are rated the lousiest porters in mountaineering lore).