My driver asks me whether I’m here for ‘five-six’, a natural question, because so many "Bumbais" are. Bumbai is the word for Indians (the early arrivals came from Bombay) and ‘five-six’ is the traditional system of itinerant moneylending, in which six pesos is repayable on a loan of five. Sounds like an astronomical rate of interest, especially if the loan is just for a day, but ‘five-six’ is incredibly hard and risky work for the lender. I went around once with Jaswinder Singh (the profession is now the monopoly of the Sikhs), who was just Josip to his clients, most of them market vendors. He had to stop by at dozens of stalls to collect the small sums owed in daily repayments on 100-day loans. The women all wanted to chat and joke with him ("Hey Josip, who is your friend, is he married?"), but Josip was in a hurry, he had other markets to visit.