Going by rail is still so fearfully exciting, especially when you haven't for yonks. Of course it's to do with childhood, this absurdly Indian love of train journeys. Our fat green hold-ails and wicker picnic baskets ate almost history now. And a six-hour run does not need berths. Instead, you fit your kinks and bumps into AC chair-cars while an incredibly polite voice tells you on the p.a. that mineral water is on its way.