"It's the price of progress," trots out the PR man for the Uttaranchal State Industrial Development Corporation. He will be my escort for a whirlwind tour of some of the fledgling state's up-and-coming enterprises. It all began at a meeting with the polished and amiable industry secretary Sanjeev Chopra. An ex-scribe, Sanjeev has recently published Ten Thousand Crores: A Personal Memoir of Uttaranchal's Industrialisation . Having failed to attend the release, I am sent a copy. The contents look promising. But I'm keen to see for myself whether the state is really on the march and whether its octogenarian CM deserves to be known as 'No delay Tiwari'.