Like Nepal, Laos is landlocked, and what India is to Nepal, Thailand is to Laos. It is a former French colony, which eradicated monarchy in 1975 after the Pathet Lao Communists came to power. They even banished the alphabet ra (from Rasa for raja) from the Lao dictionary. And today blame the rajas for the ills of this impoverished land of 5 million Buddhists. Yet every temple in the country that the present military rulers in civilian garb frequent is a legacy of the monarchy. On the outside, Laos is a very relaxed, even laidback, communist state, a great getaway from the region’s cackle and congestion. No wonder Kissinger called it a condition, not a country.