THE compensations of Shimla are its strawberry jam, clotted cream, apricots, plums, greengage, green almonds, also sold on the highway by cheerful village folk who overcharge with a smile. Its pickles in the Lower Bazaar are a gourmet's delight, especially the tiny, fiery green chillies pickled in mustard oil. Having picked up umbrellas all over the world, I still think that Shimla has the best choice of umbrellas, from pretty folding ones, to Chekov-style elegant frilly sunshades and lovely garden umbrellas. Shimla is the umbrella capital of the world.