Not that there are many tourists. The group of 30 I joined were bound for a charity trek up the Panjshir Valley to the 14,000-ft-high Anjuman Pass in the Hindu Kush, northeast of Kabul. The 95-mile-long valley was the stronghold of Ahmed Shah Masood, the mujahideen icon and Northern Alliance defence minister who was assassinated two days before the 9/11 terrorist attacks in the US.