But my boss was miffed that he had to try three paan shops, before he found cigarettes. Can't think of any other town when they'd sell only paan. Next day I refused to gawk at Chikankari and headed resolutely to Ram Advani Booksellers in Hauat Ganj, so much like Jaipur's M.I. Road. I discovered Ram Uncle, in a grey kurta, was about to leave for lunch, so I hung back and didn't introduce myself. What a lovely bookshop he has! Lots of Indian titles which glossier Delhi shops tend to hide away, all the classics on Lucknow plus a huge stack of old issues of Seminar!