So the BBC World Service Trust (with our partners NACO and Doordarshan, we make TV entertainment with information embedded on HIV/AIDS) now finds itself snuggling into bustling, up-and-coming Hauz Khas market. The area's got everything—except the three Ps: parking, pavements and bearable public loos. We're flanked on one side by a cheerful chai shop that does excellent samosas, and on the other by a brand new supermarket selling imported Japanese melons. Around the market, a newly opened taco joint, a smart coffee bar, and a computer games shop jostle alongside kabariwalas and chaat stalls. It's the epitome of urban India, still clinging on to the familiar as it adapts and changes at a giddying pace.