I have journeyed to Khuri, a small village 45 km south of Jaisalmer. Villages such as this one, within an hour's drive of Jaisalmer, depend almost entirely on tourism for their daily bread. The place has no less than nine village-style guest houses. And the tourist trade brings hefty profits: a chilled cold drink here commands Rs 15 (50 per cent more than in Jaisalmer) and a bottle of beer Rs 80. The owner of Mama Guest House, a burly Rajput, tells me that air-conditioned rooms and cable TV will soon be added.