Iceland Diary: A Land Of Ice And Fire

Discovering Iceland

As the plane touches down at Keflavík airport, rugged, dark grey, volcanic basalt rocks, covered with sedges and moss, greet us on either side of the runway.  The landscape is stark and desolate, and a grey sea, reflective of a smattering of rain, provides an infinite backdrop to this magnificent land of fire and ice. Not wanting to waste even a minute, we drove straight to the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa. Aeons ago, originating deep underground and aided by volcanic aquifers, seawater and freshwater converged, It was then drawn to the surface through geothermal extraction wells. Set against a row of dark lava rocks, the milky, ice-blue waters appear almost celestial. Floating dream-like on the mineral-rich warmth of the waters, you enter a zen state of tranquillity, and this sense of inner well-being characterises your entire journey in Iceland.

Iceland is compelling. It is a sensory extravaganza to which you surrender yourself. It overwhelms and seduces you effortlessly. Braving gravelly rocky inclines, you struggle to reach the far edge of the beginning of the glacier at Vatnaj­ökull to go on an unforgettable hike. You slither over hillocks and tussocks, clutching onto wild grass and fate to get to the black sand beach at Snæfellsjökull. You ignore the relentless wind piercing your body and nearly splintering you, and you carry on with enthusiasm and an eager anticipation of the next impossibly beautiful experience. At night, bones you didn’t know you had cause you to whimper in silent agony but the next day you are chasing glaciers and waterfalls and losing yourself among magnificent vistas once again.

Vivid landscape

Everywhere you look, there are mountains: majestic, brooding, encircling, overpowering. In the distance are  unending, snow-capped pinnacles, with the sun’s rays illuminating and ricocheting off their jagged edges, creating an aura that dazzles the eye. Framed against the exquisite blue of the sky, it is a mesmerising sight.

The massive outcroppings of lava, broody and imposing, are reminiscent of a Game of Thrones setting. The slopes are covered in a unique kind of matting—Icelandic moss—and when they catch the sun, they gleam with an unearthly jelly-like glow, creating an otherworldly feel. Interspersed in the crevices are sudden pops of yellow, pink, red and white wildflowers.

Southward, the landscape changes, with endless, lush green farmlands, horse ranches, golden ewes, creamy lambs and brown-horned rams. Picturesque cottages at the foothills and churches—compact and white, mostly with distinctive crimson gables—sit prettily among the pines. Another ‘perfectscape’ (if such a word exists!) of spectacular waterfalls, furiously cascading, frothy rivulets of white. Gullfoss, or the Golden Falls, Iceland’s iconic tourist draw, transports you to a Grimms’ fairytale world. The water originates in the Langjökull glacier and travels miles to drop 105 feet, dramatically, into Gullfoss. Since the waterfall cascades in two stages, the impact is even more breathtaking. The velocity of the spray drenches you and the water—iridescent and sparkling—pools in rainbow hues and creates the magic that is quintessential Iceland. Where the horizon meets the sky and fluffy white clouds look like edible candyfloss and you are tempted to reach out and take a bite!

Blue and White

The highways are shiny and smooth—like newly minted coins—and stretch out, carpet-like. Roads wind like ribbons and every bend sees a burst of colour with rowans, poplars and birch trees. A flash of silver as a creek or lake reflects the blue of the sky, the strong smell of sulphur as a geyser erupts, and all thro­ugh the dramatic landscapes you are in an extra­ordinary, indescribable space.

Most memories of Iceland are rendered in hues of blue and white. The Jökulsárlón glacial lake, where the still, blue water plays host to gigantic icebergs, moving majestically in slow motion towards the ocean is a surreal sight. The colours merge from an impossibly light blue to an unbe­arably fierce white, leaving you completely dazzled. An unforgettable  boat trip takes you on an incredible, slow cruise among the icebergs and the guide explains that the uniqueness of the colour of the lake is created by the melange of seawater and freshwater. An inquisitive seal pops up on occasion but the sheer experience of being within touching distance of free-flowing icebergs takes precedence over all else.

Iceland is an adventure—immersive and experiential. It leaves you with clouds in your eyes.

(This appeared in the print edition as "Iceland Diary")

Shinjita Chatterjee is an Active Listener and Cloud Walker