The mist has obscured the steep lanes of Landour, but finding our destination is not difficult. Every bystander knows Ivy Cottage, a literary pilgrimage spot of sorts. As we climb the fabled 22 red steps to his lair, a lone guinea pig heralds our arrival with gleeful squeals. We are ushered into a room where the walls seem to be made of books; I push aside the Bani Thani-imprinted cushions and take a seat.