Siddique Ali stands on the bow his country boat, silhouetted against a flaming orange sky on a November evening. The placid water of the Brahmaputra shimmers in the last rays of the setting sun and it’s time for the 61-year-old boatman to put away his oars for the day—another day ticked off from his journeys across the mighty river in Assam’s Barpeta district. “I have been a boatman for more than four decades, and my life has followed this mighty river’s ebb and flow,” Ali tells Outlook. “This is my river..this is my journey.”