Right after a spread of freshly dug ginger laid out to dry under a blazing July sun, the car eases gingerly past an elephant feasting on banana leaves off a roadside tree. It’s not a wild one, it belongs to someone. Savour the various shades of meaning the word ‘belong’ carries: animals belong to people, people belong to places. ‘Who belongs here?’ is a question that knives through Assam’s collective being right now, just like this newly macadamised four-lane highway cuts through its physical geography. Even in this remoteness, this picture-postcard Assam, we are not far from a place that would ring a bell across India. A deep, ominous ring. Nellie....