Search For Nirvana: Uncovering The Ancient City Of Kusinara

This spring, nearly 20 people gathered in front of a Buddhist temple in Titira Bangra village of Ziradei in Siwan for a long-awaited announcement. Satyadev Ram, chairman of Bihar’s Tourism Industry Development Committee, announced that two places will be given the status of national tourist destinations. The first of the two was this temple at the Titir Stupa, where they were all standing. 

The history of Titir Stupa located in Siwan itself dates back to 400 BC. According to Buddhist scriptures, Buddha died and/or attained Nirvana here nearly 2,400 years ago in an ancient city called Kusinara. The current location of Kusinara has been a hotly debated topic since the late medieval period. Although Kushinagar in Uttar Pradesh, also known as Kasia, is accepted as the ancient city, many historians believe otherwise.

Apart from Kushinagar (Kasia), there are two other places in Bihar whose geographical location is considered to be ancient Kushinara. The first place is Kushi village of Muzaffarpur. The second is Ziradei village of Siwan, which is famous as the birthplace of the first President Rajendra Prasad and also known as Kishunpur.

Krishna Kumar Singh is a journalist and teacher from Siwan, who has been researching the Buddhist history of Ziradei in Siwan for 15 years. Due to his efforts, the Archaeological Survey of India was able to discover the Buddhist pillars and other artifacts in Ziradei. Singh’s research suggests that Buddha died not in Kushinagar (Kasia) but in Siwan, hence this area of ​​Siwan is the ancient Kushinagar (Kusinara) city. To strengthen his research, Singh draws upon the articles of many historians and travellers.

What Do the Travellers Say?

The abundant literary, Buddhist texts, accounts of travellers like Fa-Hsien and Hsuan-Tsang, and archaeological evidence point to Siwan as the likely site of Buddha’s nirvana. There are excavations of marked areas in Siwan that may confirm Singh’s theory.

Describing the ancient Kusinara or Kushinagar, Bhikkhu Dharmarakshita, a Buddhist monk, wrote in his book Kushingar Ka Itihaas: “Ancient Kushinagara was situated on the western bank of the Hiranyavati River, with a smaller river flowing to the south of the town. It had a Mahavana (great forest) of Sal trees, part of which was called the Shalvan Upavatan, the Malla kings’ royal garden. The area was also known as Devavan due to sacrificial offerings to deities and included parts of the Baliharan forest. During Buddha’s time, Kushinagara was a disorganised town inhabited by wealthy, noble, Brahmin, and lay followers of the Tathagata.”

Chinese Buddhist traveller Fa-Hsien visited Kushinagara during the reign of Chandragupta II (circa 380-412 CE.) According to his scripture, at that time, there was no Buddha statue at the Nirvana Vihara. Fa-Hsien noted that they reached Kushinagara after traveling 12 yojanas east from the Angar Stupa. Kushinagara was a small, abandoned town called Mala, where the Buddha had achieved Mahaparinirvana.

Buddha’s Nirvana happened between two sal trees on the northern side of the city, along the Niranjana River, with Buddha’s head facing north. It was the same place where Subhadra, the wanderer, attained Arhatship. Here, Buddha was worshipped for seven days, where Vajrapani had thrown his golden club, and where relics of eight kings were collected. Stupas were built everywhere, and the Sangharama still existed. The town had a sparse settlement, with only a few scattered homes of monks, said Fa-Hsien.

About two centuries later, the Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang arrived in Kushinagara during the reign of Harshavardhana. Tsang’s records are vivid. He observed an Ashoka Stupa at the residence of Chunda, a monk from Kushinagara. He also described a large vihara with a Buddha statue lying in the nirvana posture, and a 200-foot stupa built by Ashoka, located by the Ajitavati/Hiranyavati River.

Tsang identified the Titir Stupa and the Mrig Stupa, associated with Buddha’s previous birth as a deer. He also noted the Subhadra Stupa, where Subhadra became an Arhat, and the Vajrapani Stupa, where Vajrapani fainted upon hearing of Buddha’s death. Tsang also recorded the nirvana site and the Golden Funeral Pyre Stupa. Additionally, he mentioned the Mahamaya Stupa related to Buddha’s mother, the Cremation Site Stupa, north of Kushinagara, the Kashyapa Stupa where Buddha showed his foot to Kashyapa, and the Relic Distribution Stupa with Ashoka’s inscriptions.

Tsang noted a well with sweet and pure water, still used by locals, and observed Kushinagara had a perimeter of about twelve yojanas (two miles.) The city, he said, had few residents, and many buildings were abandoned or in disrepair. His account highlights the significant decline of Kushinagara into a desolate site from the time of Fa-Hsien.

Siwan and Kushinagar

According to the scriptures like Mahavamsa and Dipavamsa, Kushinagara was once the capital of the Ikshvaku dynasty, which included kings such as Ikshvaku, Vikukshi, Mandhata, Trishanku, Harishchandra, Sagara, Bhagirath, and Rituparna, whose charioteer was the famed King Nala. Later, Kushinagara became part of the Kushavati kingdom, founded by Rama’s son, Kush. In Siwan’s Papaur village, Mahavira achieved Nirvana, and Buddha accepted his final meal from Chunda in Pava, a sacred land.

Around 600 BCE, the area was part of the Kosala Mahajanapada, and some scholars believe it was also part of Mahakosala. During Buddha’s lifetime, the region was under Kushavati’s military command, commander of Kosala King Prasenajit. A hundred years later, Magadh took control of Kushinagara, defeating King Prasenajit and establishing its dominance over the eastern part of Kosala.

During 300-200 BCE, archaeological finds in Siwan indicate that Kushinagara was a prosperous and well-populated city. This includes numerous Northern Black Polished Ware artifacts. Excavations at Chirand (Chhapra) further support this. Shortly after Buddha’s nirvana, the Mallan democratic system was overthrown by Ajatashatru of Magadh, leading to a shift from a Republic to Monarchy. Kushinagara continued to be under various rulers, including the Mauryas, Kshatrapas, and Guptas, but had deteriorated by the time of Chandragupta II and Harshavardhana.

After the 12th century, its history became obscure. The region, now identified with Siwan, was under various local and foreign influences, including the Indo-Greek and Kushan empires. During the Sultanate and Mughal periods, political instability in northern India allowed local rulers like the Cheros and Garhwals to gain control.

Recent Findings and Evidence

Kishunpur village lies on the western bank of the Hiranyavati River, with a small river called Jharahi flowing to the south. Nearby, the villages like Selarapur and Pipradiya indicate the presence of Shalvan. The surrounding area was once heavily forested. The region has remnants like Kishunpur and various other ancient villages, including Brahmin and Rajput settlements.

Additionally, Siwan has significant archaeological and historical evidence supporting its identification as the ancient Kushinagara. Key evidence includes: the presence of the Hiranyavati (Sona) River near Ziradei, three large stupas found near Kishunpur village on the western bank of the Hiranyavati (now known as Garh), in the village of Titir, on the western bank of the river, the Titir Stupa and other important artifacts like black polished and grey pottery. According to Jagdishwar Pandey’s survey, the Titir Stupa, described by Hsuan-Tsang, was identified in Titira village west Siwan. Hsuan-Tsang described twelve stupas in Kushinagara, one of which is the Titir Stupa. This stupa was found near Siwan, confirming the proximity of Kushinagara to this site. Historical texts and Hsuan-Tsang’s travel accounts suggest that the Mahaparinirvana of Buddha occurred in this region.

Singh and some of his colleagues are trying to get Siwan recognised as the ancient Kushinara. For this, they have also given numerous applications to the Central and State governments. They believe that if Siwan is recognised as Kushinara, not only this district but the entire state will grow.

(This appeared in the print as 'Search for Nirvana')