Tuber Kmaishnong—a small, hilly village 25 km from the district headquarters of Jowai in the East Jaintia Hills in Meghalaya—goes silent as soon as the sun sets. There is very little hustle and bustle in the market where one would usually find Nepalis selling tea and vendors, mostly belonging to the Pnar tribe, selling vegetables. The village is deserted and the arrival of an unknown vehicle does not go unnoticed. Villagers are conscious of ‘outsiders’. They are particularly wary of anyone who carries a camera, does not look like them, or cannot speak Pnar, their language. This alertness comes with a reason. This is one of the many villages in the East Jaintia Hills where the primary source of income is through the illegal method of rat-hole mining—a primitive way of extracting coal by digging deep tunnels.