It’s one of the comforting cornerstones of modern urban, and urbane, living—eating out, then dissecting the victuals, fancy or otherwise; comparing a mutton rezala with those offered by other restaurants; debating the authenticity of the ingredients in a ratatouille. How many acres of print are used up in reviewing a new-fangled delicatessen, bytes expended in skewering the ‘best’ kebabs on offer and in comparing recipes? Yet, as if charred beyond redemption in an unattended oven, this liberating, civilised course was mercilessly curdled by the Covid pandemic. Worst off was, of course, the hospitality industry. While many eateries had to shut shop, the ones that decided to batten down the hatches and bite on the bullet, innovation was the only way out.