IT is a part of ancient mercantile tradition, going back in time perhaps to the Three Wise Men, kings who brought with them gold, frankincense and myrrh. Through the ages, be it the intrepid voyagers on the silk route, the Arabs in Gujarat and Malabar, or the Taipans of South-east Asia, hospitality overt, often smothering, has been as holy as the very transaction of money and goods itself. Dancing girls, a whole sheep that rotates gently over a campfire, in the amber glow of which fine carpeting is spread, to sit upon and imbibe mellow wine from goblets of gold and silver. The medieval equivalent, perhaps, of todays fine dining places with their expensive wines, cordon bleu cooking and hushed tones. Fine dining, yes. But all is not cordon bleu. For mores as well as menus change as you traverse the globe.