For an Indian liberal, a visit to Pakistan is always a mixed delight. Our estranged brothers say they prefer dealing with the cold-blooded realist who posits no theories of special affinity, or shared past, or one-people-two-nations, but sticks with established national objectives. The Indian liberal, meanwhile, because he lights midnight candles at the Wagah post, admits his country has occasionally behaved intolerably and abominably towards its oversensitive neighbour, urges a search for the middle ground that takes into account Pakistans fragile ego, even goes so far as to suggest that, because of its size and strength, India must go the extra mile and extend the hand of friendship, conciliation and goodwill-that kind of Indian is especially suspect in Islamabad and Lahore and Karachi.