Late autumn in Kashmir, and the foliage of the Chinar trees, standing singly and in clumps, turn a flaming orange for a few blazingly brilliant days. Then, as if in response to a signal, they are shed—a moulting that gives the landscape a forlorn air. For non-local labourers working in Kashmir, it is the time for the month-long preparation to leave the Valley. Typically, in November they collect dues from contractors, shop a bit and spend a week meeting friends. Before leaving, they would clean their rented rooms. But this year is different. It hasn’t followed the established script.