Andaman Eden is a tropical island. Palm-fronded beaches, mangroves, clear blue sea, magical sunsets. Paradise also throws up paradoxes. Like, the irony in Coleridge’s devil-and-the-deep-sea line from the Ancient Mariner could not be more stark for the 500,000 people living in the Andaman atoll—“Water, water, every where,/Nor any drop to drink.”