Art, Out Of The Blue

That Mamallapuram has a rich history of temple sculptures is reflected in the fact that in the town and neighbouring villages traditional sculpture is still a vibrant practice. In fact, art historians as well as sculptors from the world over come to see these homespun artisans at work. The traditional still survives here, the same techniques used many centuries ago are still employed now.

After the tsunami, the ASI launched a number of exploratory dives in the waters close to the Shore Temple. Helping it was the Indian navy which deployed its sophisticated amphibious landing ship INS Ghorpad. About a dozen divers from the navy were involved for two weeks. "A rough map of the underwater structures has been prepared which will ease future exploration," says Commodore Brian A. Thomas, director (diving), naval HQ.

These recent findings confirm that Mamallapuram was once a beautiful cluster of 7th and 8th century AD temples, built by the Pallava kings Mahendravarman, Narasimhavarman I and II, and Paramesvara. Mamallapuram was a tiny port back in first century AD, and grew in importance when kings of the Pallava dynasty of southern India focused their attention on the little town, building exquisite temples out of natural granite on the picturesque, pristine shores.

But it was only in the 18th century that these temples—the Shore Temple dedicated to Vishnu, the Five Rathas, the rock facade depicting Arjuna's penance in the Mahabharata—were excavated by British and Indian archaeologists.

Over the years, the ASI has been unearthing various structures in the larger Mamallapuram area. According to recent findings, it's almost certain that "some more structures existed near the Shore Temple, and their remains lie underwater". References to Mamallapuram as the town of seven shrines dates back to the 16th century. Similar references can also be found in travelogues of scientist/navigators like Charles Gubbins, M. Sonnerat and John Goldingham from the 18th century.

The sea and its vagaries have always been central to the fate of Mamallapuram. History has it that the town was abandoned because of the unpredictability of the sea waters, despite it having been an important port for trade with China and Southeast Asia. Today, the Mamallapuram temples are on the UNESCO list of World Heritage sites.