WHENEVER the country's fortunes have been up, so have mine...whenever India's fortunes have been down, so have mine." Never before have fiftieth birthdays come with such a shared sense of destiny. Buoyed by such an accumulated force of macro-history. The story of a nation somehow always acquires a life beyond the millions of mundane biographies that make it up. And so, the real human stories always remain untold, submerged in the swathe of larger-than-life 'events'. Never glamorous enough, never newsworthy enough and, in an age that celebrates 'difference', almost always smothered by sameness. Yet...