Chennai

The food is uncompromisingly traditional, whether it is Alleppey fish curry from the backwaters of Kerala or Karuveppilai Poodu Kozhambu, a curry leaf-garlic-tomato gravy with thamizh roots. As culinary lores go, the recipe for a nethali (anchovy) fry came from a fisherman’s wife. The chef, who too had gone on the boat to ensure fresh catch, had a taste of the man’s lunch and made a beeline to his hut as soon as the boat docked. The fans of Orulai Vathakal, baby potato roast, or the in-house speciality—Elaneer Payasam, kheer made of tender coconut—are plenty. So, when an independent survey by org-marg chose SS as the best restaurant across the Taj Group of Hotels, it didn’t come as a surprise to chef Balaji or restaurant manager Vinu Varghese.

A meal for two: Rs 950, inclusive of taxes

From the high-priced tradition, it is time for reality bites. Hotel Sarvana Bhavan or the House of Lord Murugan is also for the man on the street. The idli-dosa-sambar saga of Sarvana Bhavan 'Annachi' Rajagpal, which started in 1981, has reached California, where a branch will open this December

Suffice it to say that a Madrasi knows his vada-chutney and thali meals. HSB's rapid rise merely shows that quality at a reasonable price is an evergreen win formula. Swathi is a variation from the standared Udupi style. This upmarket joint has Chinese and north Indian fare too. From onion kulcha and dry-fruit rava dosai to veg spring rolls, the choice is eclectic. But still it's the mini-idli sambar and babycorn varuval (fry) that are unbeatable.

The ambience is conventional. Gods and goddesses bestow benevolence from all sides. Besides good food, it's the friendly, courteous service that brings back the customer.

A meal for two: Rs 300

The loyal patrons of this 12-year-old restaurant swear by Chaapa Pulusu (Andhra fish curry) and Kozhi (chicken) Sukka of Karnataka. The extensive menu has sections based on each southern state. Even the cuisine of a community in a state is highlighted. This year, the focus is on the cuisine of Nagarathar Chettiyars, also known as the Chettinad food of Tamil Nadu. Kai Ishtew from Kerala and Tomato Pappu of Andhra are favourites among the vegans. Badam halwa and Chetti Pathiri, a layered concoction of Malayali mappilahs, rule the sweet corner.

Tradition is such an obsession with the chef that a festival here was based on an 1815 AD cookbook, Sarabendra Pakka Sastra, featuring the royal cuisine of the Mahrattas of Thanjavur. The Meen Shunti, a grilled fish unearthed from the forgotten pages of the rather old cookbook, reveals that kababs are not exactly an exclusive northern wonder. The Cheranadu and Pandiyanadu festival went back to the Sangam literature to see what tickled the palate of yore. When Anand says no innovation, just a recreation of past, the question a food lover asks is: which century?

The 96-seater restaurant has an ivory-green-gold colour theme. Bharatanatyam recitals and music concerts are staged every night.

A meal for two: Rs 800

Marien Mathew has covered food as a free-lancer for the past six years