Lukewarm On The Tongue

Warmed by the buzz, we get down to our meal. For starters, the seared foie gras is nondescript, though the crostini platter is competently done. For the main course, I go against our excellent waiter’s advice to avoid the Duck 4 Ways. I should have listened: the duck leg is scrawny, though the breast is succulent, the accompanying ravioli too crisp (it appears to be fried), and the pudding cloyingly cheesy. The king prawns from the grill come without the promised prosciutto. But both desserts—lemon mascarpone and hazelnut semifreddo—are superb. In sum, Olive scores on service, and has moved from casual to sophisticated chic. If only the food had kept up.