How did you combine Indian and French aesthetics in the menu for Gout De France?
The chef speaks on the Gout De France festival, celebrating French gastronomy, and why his menu at the Park Hotel, Calcutta, has zing and technique.
How did you combine Indian and French aesthetics in the menu for Gout De France?
The aesthetics on the plate were French—traditional and modern, but a few Indian flavours were added to spruce things up.
Is French gastronomy better appreciated in India?
In India, the core ingredient in a dish is important—it has to stand out, and French cuisine provides that in an artistic manner.
The menu structure was the same for all restaurants celebrating good France....
Only the structure was constant, but there was enough elbow space for chefs to create and experiment.
Many chefs experimented with vegan dishes. What did you have in mind?
Presence of mind. A gondhoraj lemon can be used in fine French cuisine, but French mustard cannot be replaced by kasundi.
The brandy custard cointreau creme caramel and apple crumble were quite traditional.
It’s the traditional that’s difficult to find these days.
What was the most challenging dish on the menu?
Caramel custard. So common, but to make it pitch-perfect isn’t easy.
Molecular gastronomy is all the rage. Did you incorporate those techniques?
Yes, while smoking our salad.
What aspects of French cuisine does the world want to hold on to?
Simple but scientific cooking techniques, minimalistic plates and a focus on the hero of the dish.
How do you think one can preserve traditional recipes?
Traditional recipes may get shadowed at times, but will never lose out to modern recipes.
Do you think more food fests on such a grand scale should happen in India?
Absolutely, with more support from the embassies.