RUDRA Brahma, range officer at Manas National Park's Bansbari range, can't forget that night in March 1993 when he was attacked by miscreants with daos and axes. "That attack," which saw the miscreants decamping with at least a dozen .315 rifles and some communications equipment, says Brahma, "was the nadir of the miserable period the park underwent between 1989 and 1993." He should know. Brahma has spent 19 years at the park, rising through the ranks and witnessing first-hand the rise, fall and the rise again of the national park, one of the remaining three natural habitats for the tiger in India, and designated a World Heritage Site by Unesco.