USTAD Amjad Ali Khan, one of Delhi's best known citizens, is in a state of despair. "The national capital," the sarod maestro laments, "is no longer an ideal place for anyone to live in." Indeed. Dehumanisation, disease and decay-not life and vitality-seem to have become the 'cultural' leitmotif of what is among the world's oldest living cities. There is little music left in the city's foul, carbon monoxide-laced air today. On its streets, lawlessness reigns.