Almost two decades after her assassination, she’s still competing with the world’s most famous mausoleum and is fast breeding memorabilia of all genres—like so many curio-shop Tajs. Outside 1, Safdarjang Road, her home-turned-museum and a top draw for tourists in Delhi, hawkers with green plastic viewmasters slung on their shoulders approach the tourists filing back into their buses with Indira souvenir books. "Dus rupaiya," shouts a hawker, one eye cast warily on the policemen with batons.