THE tiny office room in one of the dingiest parts of India's brass capital Moradabad, 175 km from Delhi, is stuffy, the claustrophobia heightened by the high-pitched whine of the buffing machine in the corner. But all discomfort melts away as 70-year-old Ata-ur-Rehman, sitting upright on a narrow straight-backed chair, strokes his flowing silver beard and weaves a fascinating tale that has its genesis in the year 1917.