GOING up Mt Everest is optional but coming down is mandatory," says Ed Viesturs, a US-based mountaineer, who has scaled nine peaks over 8,000 metres, including Everest, which he has climbed times. This year the maxim seems to been lost on members of various expeditions taking a shot at glory by trying reach the summit. The number of expeditions rose to 11 on the Nepalese side—from just two in 1995—after the one route-one team restriction, in force since 1993, was lifted. And the government failed to enforce a screening process which would establish the credentials of the expedition members as climbers.