"Our prime destinations are so ill-maintained. Which man will look for a dustbin in Agra? The entire place is like a garbage dump. Why blame the tourist alone?" asks Pradeep Sankhla, owner of Indian Nature Expedition, an outfit that promotes eco-tourism. With 'indifferent and arbitrary' rules granting no more than three hours to tourists who want to cover a 40 km trail in Ranthambore, says Sankhla, it's hardly surprising that the National Park is treated like a movie by many. "Have your popcorn and litter the hall while at it," an irate Sankhla says. The writing on the wall is distressing. Chiselling obscene messages on monuments is another temptation. Says Achala Moulik, additional director general, Archaeological Survey of India: "How can 50 available attenders keep a check on 12,000 people who visit the Taj on a good day? The best safeguard is the tourist's conscience—that has to be awakened through awareness."