Modern India is unimaginable without colonialism, and pucca colonialism without the railways, thelines that ran on desi steam for firenghi profit. The railways made all of us Hindu-Muslim-Sikh-Isaiwhat we are. They helped push goods and ideas around, eased pilgrimages to various teerths, and allowedthat inveterate passenger, M.K. Gandhi, to carry his message to the thousands thronging wayside stations for afleeting darshan: the Mahatma had set guidelines for how effusive nationalists were to exerciseplatform discipline. But the odd steam-gurgling ‘lorry’ aside, the sahib’s simply yoked theirsteel-rails to our mricchakatikam-style bullock carts. So that Devdas Dilip Kumar’s finaltrain journey to Paro ends dramatically on a creaking bailgari, and the hooch that would lay waste theless affluent came to mufassil warehouses well into the mid-sixties in bonded barrels carted by a pairof bullocks.