On Pilgrimage Blues
You can see him from 10 kilometres away, his regal gaze upon a helplessly supplicant world from atop the taller of the only two hills in the vicinity of the rolling landscape. It is Bahubali, or the more affectionate Gomatesvara, son of Adinatha, first of the Jain Tirthankaras, who stands thus in the Pratima Yoga posture, a 17m monolithic statue reached by climbing 650 steps of the taller hill, the Vindhyagiri. He inspires a certain quiet, this composed sentinel of over a thousand years, his size as difficult to grasp as his tranquillity, a word that somehow fails to describe his infinite peace well enough. Visitors to Sravanagbelagola would do well to spare time for its even older history, now seen in a clutch of temples, caves, monuments and inscriptions, especially those on nearby Chandragiri. Since Sravanabelagola isn’t what one might call a tourist hub, stay at the better equipped but expensive (for what it offers) Hassan, which is but 50km away. Try the earnest Hoysala Village Resort or the bureaucratic Hassan Ashok. Hassan is also a good base for visits to the Hoysala temples at Halebid (40km) and Belur (34km).