Men’s jewellery is having its moment in the world of glitz and glamour. From musicians, rappers, and rockers to our very own quintessential Bollywood grooms, the fashion risk-takers are creating their new identity by adding a piece of jewellery to their personalities. Who would imagine Johnny Depp without a multitude of personalized bracelets, rings, and necklaces, Robert Downing Jr. without a range of personalized men’s jewellery, Harry Styles minus pearl earrings or beaded necklace right, or for that matter Ranveer Singh without bead necklaces during his wedding with Deepika Padukone?
Bollywood’s Groom Jewellery Journey
When Ranveer Singh’s elevated his Sindhi wedding look at Lake Como in 2018 by accessorizing his red sherwani with a necklace made with uncut diamonds, and multiple strings of rubies completing the look, we knew that this man is now going to bring jewellery to the mainstay just like his other fashionable moments. In the same year, Sonam Kapoor’s husband too opted for two layered necklaces along with a sarpech.
Before these two new-age Bollywood grooms took over the charge of shaping male jewellery trends, we had visuals of Abhishek Bachchan’s two layered necklaces from his wedding with Aishwarya Rai Bachchan and a statement sarpech worn by Saif Ali Khan for his 2012 wedding with Kareena Kapoor Khan.
What's Driving This Change
Although jewellery has only recently become a fashion statement for men, it was a common accessory in ancient India with maharajas often donning pieces such as rings, bracelets, stacked necklaces, and toe rings. Then came the era when jewellery became synonymous with women only because, for men, it was touted as rebellious and anti-establishment.
However, with the global movement in the segment, for example, Tiffany & Co.'s dedicated men’s jewellery line, Foundrae moving into a gender-neutral space, and Mikimoto partnering with Comme des Garçons to give a modern touch to pearls, the Indian market too felt the change and many credited this to ‘progressive young population.
Celebrity designer Kunal Rawal, who recently got married to Arpita Mehta, is grateful to be a part of this new menswear story in India. “The market is changing rapidly, almost as if it’s making up for the lost time. A lot of this change can be credited to the sensibilities of the new audience we are catering to today – the progressive young Indians,” Rawal, who designed wedding outfits for Shahid Kapoor in the past, tells the writer.
Designer duo Abu Jani And Sandeep Khosla, who has designed the sangeet outfit for latest Bollywood groom Ali Fazal, feel that from the 1940s 50s, and 60s when most men wore a boring English suit, bereft of colour or tradition, to the evolution to sober ivory, tailored sherwanis and bandgalas in the 70s and 80s, the last three decades have witnessed a massive resurgence of wedding wear that embraces silhouettes and extravagant embroideries.
“Men are revealing in celebrating their sartorial beauty as they should,” says the duo.
The Trend In Men’s Jewellery
We saw how genderless jewellery designs dominated the men's spring/summer 2022 runway shows in Paris, Milan and NYC. On the other hand, the Indian men are trying out heavily embellished pearls and classic Kundan accessories.
However, the smaller pieces of jewellery that invoke an heirloom quality in them for instance a sarpech (an ornament put on the turban) , silver suit buttons, and beautiful diamond-encrusted cufflinks are too hot sellers too.
“If the groom is willing to push the envelope just a little further and don a one statement piece, we suggest a string or tiered Kantha necklace which is a gender-fluid statement piece inspired by the flag bearers of culture and principalities in the gone era,” says designer Raghavendra Rathore, the man behind Saif Ali Khan’s wedding looks.
Most couturiers believe that to ace the wedding look, jewellery is important too and hence many are playing around with precious jewellery.
“In the line of precious jewellery, we play around with kalgis and other pieces of jewellery. Today, men do want to wear some sort of jewellery including emerald pearls, or rubies. I have always believed that we are the original land of maharajas who were the biggest connoisseurs of fine jewelleries,” says veteran designer JJ Valaya, who made his debut into precious jewellery at The World Of Valaya recently.
What Grooms Should Avoid
Less is more is the mantra here too. “Don’t look like a Christmas tree or try to overpower your bride. We love old school strings of pearls, rubies and emeralds, buttons, a fabulous turban pin or brooch, and investing in a quality watch,” says Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla.
A simple kilanghi and jewel buttons or a kilanghi and a neckpiece can fully finish a look, adds Kunal Rawal and adds that even with neckpieces, don’t go too heavy. “A simple tight single or double lari works very well,” he says.
Jewllery Styling Tips for Men
The common rule to ace the fashion game is being comfortable in your skin and the same stands true while selecting jewellery as well.
“It is Ideal to always go with minimalist designs for example brooches, buttons, strings of pearls/ ruby / emerald. Also, try having a colour story and don’t wear it all together in one look,” says Abhilasha Devnani, a celebrity fashion stylist who has worked with Anand Ahuja for his Wedding look. She also suggests skipping the brooch on the outfit and wearing it either on the saafa or on the pocket of the jacket.
“One of my personal favourite ways to elevate a minimalistic look is to use beautiful Jewelled buttons, which can also be personalized with initials / a crest,” she sums up.
So, Grooms Take Note and Get Ready.
