Italian fashion giants Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi captivated the audience at Milan Fashion Week with their distinctive takes on menswear, presenting collections that exuded sophistication and style.
Dolce & Gabbana, renowned for their opulent designs, unveiled their "Sleek" autumn to winter menswear collection on Saturday. The runway featured a parade of sharply tailored ensembles, including long, textured coats and waist-length jackets. The color palette, predominantly black, was adorned with touches of white, grey, and denim, creating a sleek and contemporary aesthetic.
Amazon founder Jeff Bezos was among the distinguished guests who witnessed the show. In their show notes, design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana expressed their vision for the collection, emphasizing the pursuit of "the recovery of values through quality expressed in all its forms."
The color spectrum ranged from green to grey, and plum to dark blue. Models graced the catwalk in long, pleated shorts inspired by Scottish kilts, leather boots resembling Wellingtons, and loose trousers enhanced with pleats. Fishermen's coats and waterproof wax jackets added an outdoorsy touch to the collection.
Meanwhile, Fendi, under the creative direction of Venturini Fendi, showcased a collection that blurred the lines between masculinity and femininity, tradition-bound aristocracy and contemporary streetwear. The runway featured loose trousers with side plisses transitioning into long pleated Bermuda kilts and low-slung skorts in plaid blanket wool.
Venturini Fendi, the brand’s director of accessories and menswear, explained the concept behind the collection, stating, “I liked the idea of breaking barriers, breaking the masculine and feminine codes, that don’t exist anymore. They shouldn’t exist anymore.’’
The overall mood of the Fendi runway was casual and off-hours, with jackets often flung over the arm, signaling the end of the day's work. Soft corduroy trousers seamlessly merged with slit hemlines falling over thick-soled sneakers, creating a laid-back yet sophisticated look. The evening wear introduced soft suits, overcoats with shimmery surfaces, and nearly sheer long knitwear over trousers, adding a touch of decadence.
In line with recent Milan trends, the Fendi logo made subtle appearances, as a geometric repeat pattern on checked double-Fs and covering a portable music speaker created in collaboration with French brand Devialet.
Venturini Fendi emphasized the collection's focus on longevity and creating heirlooms, stating, “to underline garments for life, not use and throw away.”