Modern Istanbul has 15 million inhabitants. Jazz bars thrive along European-style boulevards. Young Turks in their Armanis sip cappuccinos in cafes next to centuries-old bazaars where men in pillbox hats sell spices and pricey carpets. Contradictions are inevitable in a city that straddles two continents. Istanbul is not quite sure where it belongs.
But there is no doubt about Ankara's intentions. It wants desperately to join the European Union. In its eagerness to be considered European, Turkey has banned the veil and Romanised the alphabet. The stumbling block is France which does not want to dilute Europe's Christian heritage by the entry of a predominantly Muslim country, however secular. Fortunately for Turkey, it has the backing of Britain and Germany and so all is not lost. Relations with India have been cool for many years due to Turkey's traditional support to Pakistan on Kashmir. India has reciprocated the ill-will by backing Greece on Cyprus at the UN. There has been some reassessment of ties since the end of the cold war, though.
