Arriving at Rashtrapati Bhavan for President Kalam's banquet, he was clearly wowed by Mountbatten's erstwhile residence. I saw him glancing repeatedly at the ceiling admiring the chandeliers and the paintings of former presidents; he examined the silver cutlery and made enquiries about the lodge's history. Foreign minister Kasuri was equally bewitched by the ceiling of the Durbar Hall and asked me how the artisans had got to the roof to fix the inlays. "We don't have anything like this," confessed a Pakistani official candidly.
One CBM not mentioned in the joint statement was the outstanding and abundant cuisine India served to its guests. Food was our secret CBM. "Are you softening us up?" asked an official as he took a second helping of masala bhindi. "Aap ka South Indian khana is wonderful. We didn't know vegetarian food could be so delicious," said the Pakistani next to me at the banquet. When I told him South Indian food, particularly from Andhra and Chettinad, was mostly non-vegetarian and wickedly hot, he noted the names of a few wicked dishes.
In all this gastronomic diplomacy and visible goodwill, the general managed to bowl a googly which stumped us editors. "You say no new map-making, we say no LoC-type solution. And we both agree that soft borders is a good idea. Given this understanding on both sides, let us try to come up with a solution. It is possible. You think about it." Whatever could he mean? Joint sovereignty for J&K? Independent status for the region? As the General left, we were all scratching our heads.
