There is an air of celebration around Dadar, in central Mumbai. Everyone is headed one way – towards Chaityabhoomi, the place revered by the Dalits for it was here that their icon Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar was cremated. The annual pilgrimage by tens of thousands to Chaityabhoomi, located near the Arabian Sea in Dadar, marks the Mahaparinirvan Din or the death anniversary of Ambedkar. A celebration of identity, the Dalits congregate for one of the most progressive cultural events in Mumbai.
Educate, organise and agitate are the slogans Ambedkar gave the Dalits to move forward in their struggle for equality. Every corner of Chaityabhoomi, decked up in varied colours resonates these slogans. The numerous stalls, set up for the occasion, displaying books, pamphlets and quotations of the leader emphasize reading, writing and understanding the world. The thrust of these stalls is to make the illiterate amongst those visiting Chaityabhoomi understand the importance of education. Dalit activist Bhaurao Thombare told Outlook that he has made it his life’s mission to create awareness about the pros of education.
“They come here and are inspired by all that they see. We make them take a pledge that they will educate their children despite all the odds they face. We have seen an increase in the literacy rate in the community,” said Thombare. “We tell them that education is the key to ending their subjugation,” he said.
A group of senior citizens – all from Uttar Pradesh and followers of the mystic saint and poet Kabir – are visiting the place for the first time. They confessed to have been planning this trip for a long time. According to the group, the Dalit movement has been greatly influenced by Kabir’s literary legacy.
Jalgaon-based Shirish Jhanjhar has been a regular at Chaityabhoomi. In his assessment, the crowd has been increasing every year. A street play artiste, Jhanjhar and his troupe will perform impromptu skits based on various themes including current affairs, social transformation, revolution, Dalit self-respect, feminism, secularism, Dalit-Muslim unity. “December 6 is also the day when the Babri Masjid was demolished and Mahaparinirvan din. So, there is a deep-rooted connection between the Dalits and the Muslims as both are oppressed communities,” said Jhanjhar. “The unity between the Dalits and the Muslims is an important theme in our skits. Today politicians forget that Babasaheb Ambedkar was a radical, they want him to be a moderate. The aspirations of my community have grown, this is the fruit of education,” he said.
Despite the large numbers who visit Chaityabhoomi, they are a disciplined and orderly crowd. Since there is mass movement at this place on the day of the event (December 6) and the days preceding and after the event, it is difficult to gauge to numbers in attendance. Members of the community, both old and young, have voluntarily signed up as security guards which helps streamline the teeming crowds. They are from all walks of life – from the upper-class Dalits to the lower rung in the community. They travel to Dadar from across the country. Since a vast majority who travel down for the event, are unable to afford accommodation in Mumbai, they sleep on the footpaths in and around Chaityabhoomi. With their meagre belongings packed into bags and many with small children in tow, their singular aim is to pay obeisance at the altar of their icon.
There are thousands of vendors, a majority of them Muslims, selling everything from key chains to large photos of Ambedkar to willing buyers. Byculla-resident Hafeez has been selling tee-shirts at Chaityabhoomi since 2010. According to him, the Muslim vendors from Crawford Market, Kurla, Byculla and Bandra converge here and business is brisk. “I earn about Rs 1500-2000 a day. The tee-shirts are not priced very high. Since the young generation love slogans, we have tried to have some with Marathi slogans,” he said. “Many of the people who come here are poor. We do not price the products very high, we need buyers too,” said Hafeez.
For the Dalits who come to Chaityabhoomi, it is an assertion over public spaces. It is also a defiance against oppression and a celebration of their identity, said Jhanjhar.
