In the summer of 2016, I went scouring the streets of Srinagar in the hope of finding the ultimate Kashmiri gastronomic experience. Said to be a meal fit for royalty, a ‘Wazwan’ spread, at its lavish best, can have as many as 36 courses featuring several kinds of meat cooked in a variety of ways, with a selection of spices and other ingredients. It is, with good reason, considered to be a must-try for anyone visiting Kashmir.
I looked to a few locals for their suggestions on where to go for such a meal, only to quickly realise that their opinions were quite fragmented. While everyone agreed that I must try Wazwan, no one could seem to agree on the best place to actually do so. Left with no clear answer, I rolled the dice and simply went to the restaurant that was “highest rated” as per the internet.
And the outcome? The experience was definitely unique. But, sadly, the food itself was very ordinary. I could tell that it did not have the freshness of ingredients or richness in flavour that a meal of this stature should have had. Clearly, the meal was put together out of obligation rather than as a representation of the best of Kashmiri cuisine.
A few days later, I was ranting to a new-found friend in Srinagar about my terribly disappointing ‘Wazwan’ experience when he, while thoroughly amused, cut me short and said, “I’ll take you to a good place.” I immediately assumed that this would involve another lavish Wazwan restaurant. To my complete surprise, we landed up in front of a fairly ordinary looking roadside restaurant with a faded board across the entrance that read ‘New Krishna Vaishno Dhaba’. The place was buzzing with people and as a waiter rushed past in a hurry, Aaditya, my friend, managed to sneak in our order - “Do (two) rajma chawal butter fry”.
The reality is that Wazwan, in its tourist-oriented avatar, is a far cry from what it’s actually meant to be. On a subsequent visit to Kashmir, I had the chance to try it again at a friend’s wedding ceremony. The privately catered meal was fresh, authentic and truly heavenly. The key, then, is to basically find places where it’s made for the locals and avoid all the other eyewash. Having said that, whenever I’m in Srinagar next I’ll still be sooner found standing in line for a nice big plate of rajma chawal butter fry!
