At the turn of the century, a series of world conferences witnessed numerous debates addressing the renewal of historical cities. Arnold Toynbee, the distinguished historian, once remarked that “cities can survive and prosper only as they meet challenges of the current age and they need to be renewed every 100 years”. It is extremely convenient to develop templates as part of development projects; however, the challenge is to tailor and align such projects with the inherent character defining each city. The Kyoto to Varanasi agreement set off by Narendra Modi in Japan is a bold step. But, one wonders how this will happen—the inherited complexity of Varanasi or Kashi or Anandvan or even Banaras needs to be kept in mind.
Enthusiasts must be aware that no one wants to move out of the spiritual-emotional-urban geography of Kashi, which is also perceived as the moksha sthan, for this is the borough where one’s soul is freed from the cycle of life and rebirth. It includes the riverfront, along with its onion-like layers in the interconnected backlanes of Kashi. Along this space run the pedestrian paths, streets and a colonial-era sewage system. The riverfront and the dense neighbourhood and clogged streets along it remain dirty and congested right through to the central area of the city from Assi, Lanka to Gaudauliya. The stretch includes the heart of the historical city and stretches for kilometres but excludes the banks of the Ganga on the other side contiguous with Ramnagar.
The region represents the living heritage of an ancient worldview which refuses to be compromised in the face of contemporary wants. It is this non-negotiable, invariable and inherent character which has preserved its magnetism and has drawn people from around the world to this ancient city. It is not the intention of PM Modi that one doubts but the creation of world-class cities, which is about efficient management in a contained image bereft of spirituality. Any revival of Kashi must retain and sustain its spiritual personality.
For Kashi’s renewal, there could be no better partner than Japan, with its rich and unique culture, traditions and a heritage well preserved since ancient times. Significantly, Japan still is the nation where modernity and tradition coexist in absolute harmony, while people in their day-to-day life remain traditional. Now, the expectation is that the energy and doggedness of Modi will change the attitude of fellow Indians and enhance their competence to match the efficient approach of the Japanese. Crucial to the revival of Kashi is pure praxis—to perceive and preserve the spatial plurality of culture and traditions.
An ancient civilisation, India has always resisted being reduced to a well-curated image. Kashi or Varanasi, like the rest of India, represents an ever-vibrant progression of living plurality. Every cultural and regional social group there has desired and vied for presence around the moksha sthan. Given this, there is a lurking apprehension that the renewal of Kashi will succumb to ‘world-class urbanisation’, forsaking its soul and plurality for an efficient administration. With the Ganga a constant symbol of plurality, the renewal of Kashi must preserve this spirit.
The honeycomb-like coexistence of diverse communities and cultures is the trait of Kashi. The coexistence of Aghors and Vishwanath with the Shakti Peeth and Vallabhacharya, the preceptor of Vaishnavism; the echo of Buddha’s first sermon with that of the silence of Jain saint Parshvanath; the rhythm of the looms of thousands of Muslim weavers are accompanied by the taals of the Banaras gharana; Kathak and the lilting, sensuous sound of tappa and thumri—all reflect a perfect harmony. Alongside are chants of the women of Panini Vidyalaya defying patriarchy, the devotion of Tulsi’s Ramayana and dedications on temple structures built by Rani Ahilya Bai and the Marathas. There is also the maulvi offering flowers to the priest at the Vishwanath temple. The modern, nationalist spirit of Banaras Hindu University blends with the natural whiff of cannabis smoke and carefree laughter. Hopefully, this diversity would remain intact.
The renewal programme needs to fill the void that exists amidst two metaphorical spaces—the cosmic and individual nirvana. This is community space. A most important aspect of the renewal programme is to raise awareness among people to seek a sustainable, clean public space—both on land and river and not forgetting clean public toilets. Kashi, the city of light, is indeed a metaphor to seek one’s soul amidst chaos and dirt, but the perspective needs a tangible truth—finding Vishwanath everywhere. Jitney kankar utne Shankar! Shiva in every pebble!
(The author is a heritage educationist)
